“A digital pedal—such as a tuner or
digital delay—should not share power
with any other pedals.” —AnalogMike
Left: Godlyke’s Power-Grip features
multiple rows of mushroom-shaped
posts that interlock to create a bond the
company says is stronger than other
hook-and-loop attachment materials.
Above: The Voodoo Lab ISO- 5
(reviewed November 2010)
features isolated DC outputs for
9-, 12-, and 18-volt devices.
Left: The Visual Sound 1 SPOT
(top) can power up to eight
pedals from one outlet, and it
includes an eight-plug cable
(left), two battery-clip converters
(middle), an L6 converter for Line
6 modeling pedals (third from
right), and two 1/8" converter
plugs (far right).
board loaded with pedals can rival an amp’s weight
once you factor in the case itself. If you rely on
public transportation to transport your whole rig,
then a gigbag is the more practical option.
Attaching the Pedals
Once you choose the right pedalboard you need
to make sure your stompboxes stay in place.
Otherwise, you risk damaging your precious
investments. And for guys who obsess over
tone, it’s not just pedals that cost a chunk ’o
change—it’s also the specialized power supplies,
patch cords, and cables.
Although Velcro and generic hook-and-loop
fasteners have been ubiquitous on pedalboards
for a long time now, other solutions are com-
ing on the scene, too. Some players have moved
on to 3M’s Dual Lock, while products like
Godlyke’s Power-Grip pedalboard tape (Street
$19.95 for one meter, godlyke.com) are made
specifically for keeping pedals in place. Each
method has its pros and cons, but when you
consider them all, which is the best way to keep
pedals on a board?
With all due respect to Eric Johnson and his
views on the tonal differences among battery
types, running all your pedals on any kind
of battery will cost a fortune over time. Plus,
changing batteries in a pedal that’s attached
to a pedalboard can be a real pain—especially