3. Gently bend out your new Fasel
inductor’s legs so they’ll fit through
the inductor socket’s holes.
4. Pop the new inductor into the circuit
board and resolder the connections.
5. Place the circuit board back in the
pedal housing.
6. Plug the five-wired white plug back
into the circuit board. You’re done!
... true-bypass switching is great—but you
always need to make
sure you have one pedal
in your signal chain with
a good, quality buffered
bypass if you’re running
long lengths of cable ...
True-Bypass
Switching
Mod Type: Tonal
Difficulty Level: Medium
What You Need:
•;Soldering;iron
• Solder
•;Spare;wire
•;Insulation;tape;OR
heatshrink tubing
•;A;2-pole/double-throw
or 3-pole/double-throw
stomp switch
•;Wire;strippers
•;Side;cutters
•;Short;piece;of;tinned;wire
•;Wrench;for;footswitch;nut
Our final mod is adding true-bypass witching to the same Vox wah from
mods 2 and 3. Although we’re demonstrating this procedure on a wah, it can
be applied to any pedal—as long as you
can isolate the input- and output-socket
wires, and the circuit input and output
wires, and follow the instructions below.
I started writing the pros and cons of
this mod but swiftly realized such an essay
could fill a page or so. There’s plenty of
info on it out there, so if you’re inclined to
dive into the minutia, go forth and do your
research. My take on it is that true-bypass
switching is great—but you always need
to make sure you have one pedal in your
signal chain with a good, quality buffered
bypass if you’re running long lengths of
cable between your guitar, pedals, and
amp. It all has to do with impedance. The
low-impedance output of a good, buffered
bypass pedal means you won’t get any high
frequency loss using long cables.
So, let’s turn our Vox into a true-bypass
device. First, let’s have a look at the existing footswitch—the black rectangular box
connected to the brown, white, and blue
wires (shown below).
